Thurs 10th May
We caught the midday ferry from Harris to Skye. It only takes about an hour and a half for the journey but the weather is totally different, we left Harris in warm sunshine and find Skye covered in cloud and rain. That's the Skye we know and love! The very first time we came to Skye, on a summers day, we were saying "where are these mountains", only to find we had driven right past them. Not so bad today we can see them, well the bottoms anyway.
I think it will be an afternoon of tea and cake, may be a bit of banjo playing also.
Phil and Tina
Thursday, May 10, 2012
Last full day on the Hebrides
Wed 9th May
Today the wind dropped and we are back to sunny spells although the breeze is cool.
This is our last full day on the Outer Hebrides, we catch the ferry back to Skye tomorrow morning.
This morning we drove along the Golden Road, it's a single track road (like most here) and is so called because of the cost to construct it. It follows the cost going in and out of all in the inlets.
We went back to the beach at Losgaintir, where I finished my walk earlier in the week. We had a long walk on the beach, you can walk for miles there. We said earlier in the week this beach was reported to be the best in the UK, yesterday it said on the radio that some publication claimed it was one of the best in the world. They said it was like the beaches in Brazil, only the average temperature is 7 degrees C and there is no one on it, the last bit sounds fine to me.
Last nights wind brought some snow high up, some of Harris' higher mountains have snow on the summits today.
In the afternoon we went to another island connected by a road bridge, Scalpay.
Phil and Tina
Today the wind dropped and we are back to sunny spells although the breeze is cool.
This is our last full day on the Outer Hebrides, we catch the ferry back to Skye tomorrow morning.
This morning we drove along the Golden Road, it's a single track road (like most here) and is so called because of the cost to construct it. It follows the cost going in and out of all in the inlets.
We went back to the beach at Losgaintir, where I finished my walk earlier in the week. We had a long walk on the beach, you can walk for miles there. We said earlier in the week this beach was reported to be the best in the UK, yesterday it said on the radio that some publication claimed it was one of the best in the world. They said it was like the beaches in Brazil, only the average temperature is 7 degrees C and there is no one on it, the last bit sounds fine to me.
Last nights wind brought some snow high up, some of Harris' higher mountains have snow on the summits today.
In the afternoon we went to another island connected by a road bridge, Scalpay.
Phil and Tina
Wednesday, May 9, 2012
Lewis no more
Tuesday 8th May
Today we woke to an overcast sky, the wind was still cold and the showers a bit more frequent. We took Bonnie down to a beach near the campsite. The turquoise blue sea has been replaced by a slate grey one and those are not white horses out there but great big cart horses.
There are a number of Black House museums and even a complete Black House village in the area, so we spent the day visiting them, we also visited an Norse mill.
The campsite on Lewis is a little exposed so we have decided to head back to the sheltered campsite on Harris, we were due to return there tomorrow night since it is near the ferry terminal we are going to use on Thursday.
Phil and Tina
Today we woke to an overcast sky, the wind was still cold and the showers a bit more frequent. We took Bonnie down to a beach near the campsite. The turquoise blue sea has been replaced by a slate grey one and those are not white horses out there but great big cart horses.
There are a number of Black House museums and even a complete Black House village in the area, so we spent the day visiting them, we also visited an Norse mill.
The campsite on Lewis is a little exposed so we have decided to head back to the sheltered campsite on Harris, we were due to return there tomorrow night since it is near the ferry terminal we are going to use on Thursday.
Phil and Tina
Uig Mk II
Monday 7th May
Once again the sun was shining when we woke up, but it was not a clear sky and we did have a few showers during the day.
Today we drove to Uig on Lewis, this is our second Uig, the first was on Skye. Uig is remote and has both mountains and white sandy beaches. When we drove up the east side of Lewis we were not so impressed as we had been with other parts of the Hebrides, but the drive to Uig put Lewis back on the map.
In the afternoon we visited Great Bernera, this an island connected to Lewis via a bridge. We stopped to see a iron age house but did not stop long since dogs were not welcome in the area.
On the drive back to the campsite on Lewis we visited a number of stone circles.
Tonight we have pulled the roof of the van down, the temperatures dropped and when the roof is up it's a larger area to heat up. It's clouded over and a cold wind is blowing, I think the good weather may be over.
Phil and Tina
Once again the sun was shining when we woke up, but it was not a clear sky and we did have a few showers during the day.
Today we drove to Uig on Lewis, this is our second Uig, the first was on Skye. Uig is remote and has both mountains and white sandy beaches. When we drove up the east side of Lewis we were not so impressed as we had been with other parts of the Hebrides, but the drive to Uig put Lewis back on the map.
In the afternoon we visited Great Bernera, this an island connected to Lewis via a bridge. We stopped to see a iron age house but did not stop long since dogs were not welcome in the area.
On the drive back to the campsite on Lewis we visited a number of stone circles.
Tonight we have pulled the roof of the van down, the temperatures dropped and when the roof is up it's a larger area to heat up. It's clouded over and a cold wind is blowing, I think the good weather may be over.
Phil and Tina
Sunday, May 6, 2012
Cliffs and Crofts
Sunday 6th May
Today's weather gave us showers, including wintery ones, and sunny spells. Lucky for use each time we wanted to leave the van it was sunny.
This morning we drove to Hushinish on the west coast of Harris. Hushinish is a crofting community and surprise, surprise, has a lovely sandy beach.
After lunch we drove to Lewis, I'm not sure why the south is called Harris and the north Lewis, it is one island. The north end of Lewis is flat and has built up communities, not like the main land but quite large compared to the rest of the Outer Hebrides.
Since it is Sunday there are no shops or petrol stations open and the hotel restaurants are only open to residents. The children's playground even had a sign on it saying "Please respect the sabbath".
We drove to the very north of the island, Butt of Lewis, and had a very nice walk high on the cliff tops. This is suppose to be the windiest spot in the UK but we had a little breeze blowing, that said the waves were still crashing against the cliffs.
Phil and Tina
Today's weather gave us showers, including wintery ones, and sunny spells. Lucky for use each time we wanted to leave the van it was sunny.
This morning we drove to Hushinish on the west coast of Harris. Hushinish is a crofting community and surprise, surprise, has a lovely sandy beach.
After lunch we drove to Lewis, I'm not sure why the south is called Harris and the north Lewis, it is one island. The north end of Lewis is flat and has built up communities, not like the main land but quite large compared to the rest of the Outer Hebrides.
Since it is Sunday there are no shops or petrol stations open and the hotel restaurants are only open to residents. The children's playground even had a sign on it saying "Please respect the sabbath".
We drove to the very north of the island, Butt of Lewis, and had a very nice walk high on the cliff tops. This is suppose to be the windiest spot in the UK but we had a little breeze blowing, that said the waves were still crashing against the cliffs.
Phil and Tina
Over the hills and far away
Sat 5th May
Bright sunny spells today with a chilly breeze. The campsite is sheltered from the wind so we had a nice quite night. When I took Bonnie out last night before bed the moon looked full and I could hear grouse calling to each other, it was a little eerie.
Today I had a hill day and Tina took Bonnie to play on the beach and to have a short walk.
I walked from the campsite and climbed Ceann Reamhar, Beinn Losgaintir and Beinn Dhubh. They are not very high, Beinn Dhubh is the highest at 506m, but the ridge forms a peninsula and this makes it seem a bit lofty out above the sea. I finished off the walk by dropping down to the beach at Losgaintir, where I met Tina, the walk took 6 1/2 hours. The start of the walk was along the road from the campsite, I passed a loom room where a man was weaving, I guess with this being Harris he was weaving Harris tweed. During the walk I came across a grouse. Why do they wait till you are right upon them to squawk and flap away, it always makes me jump. Whilst dropping off the ridge I saw a very large bird soaring, it could have been an eagle but I did not get a good look at it.
Tina and Bonnie enjoyed their beach day, in one if the national newspapers this beach was number one for beaches in the UK.
Tonight we are on the same campsite and tomorrow we head off to Lewis the last of our new islands.
Phil and Tina
Bright sunny spells today with a chilly breeze. The campsite is sheltered from the wind so we had a nice quite night. When I took Bonnie out last night before bed the moon looked full and I could hear grouse calling to each other, it was a little eerie.
Today I had a hill day and Tina took Bonnie to play on the beach and to have a short walk.
I walked from the campsite and climbed Ceann Reamhar, Beinn Losgaintir and Beinn Dhubh. They are not very high, Beinn Dhubh is the highest at 506m, but the ridge forms a peninsula and this makes it seem a bit lofty out above the sea. I finished off the walk by dropping down to the beach at Losgaintir, where I met Tina, the walk took 6 1/2 hours. The start of the walk was along the road from the campsite, I passed a loom room where a man was weaving, I guess with this being Harris he was weaving Harris tweed. During the walk I came across a grouse. Why do they wait till you are right upon them to squawk and flap away, it always makes me jump. Whilst dropping off the ridge I saw a very large bird soaring, it could have been an eagle but I did not get a good look at it.
Tina and Bonnie enjoyed their beach day, in one if the national newspapers this beach was number one for beaches in the UK.
Tonight we are on the same campsite and tomorrow we head off to Lewis the last of our new islands.
Phil and Tina
Mountains, sea and sand - Harris
Friday 4th May
A bit of a windy night, still cold and windy this morning. We moved from the southern islands to the north today so spent the morning reading and watching the seals at Berneray before catching the lunch time ferry to Harris. I quite like the look of Harris, what we have seen so far, long sandy beaches and mountains.
We are staying on a nice little site, it takes just four camper vans, at Plocrapol. This afternoon we went for a walk which defiantly blew the cobwebs away.
Phil and Tina
A bit of a windy night, still cold and windy this morning. We moved from the southern islands to the north today so spent the morning reading and watching the seals at Berneray before catching the lunch time ferry to Harris. I quite like the look of Harris, what we have seen so far, long sandy beaches and mountains.
We are staying on a nice little site, it takes just four camper vans, at Plocrapol. This afternoon we went for a walk which defiantly blew the cobwebs away.
Phil and Tina
Thursday, May 3, 2012
Cooler but a little otter
Well we woke today to find an overcast morning, the sun did make an appearance early afternoon but then more cloud rolled in.
This morning we went to a small island called Flodaigh, which is part of Benbecula. On Flodaigh there is an area called Seal Point and we were hoping, funny enough, to see some seals. We did see a couple of heads sticking out the water, but none hauled out on the side of the Loch. We were however not disappointed since we were treated to a wonderful display of an otter catching fish and eating them. It was much better than the glimpse we had yesterday.
In the afternoon we headed north to the island of Berneray which is north of North Uist. Here we did see a number of seals hauled out on the rocks, we also saw one swimming and jumping out of the water a number of times like a dolphin.
Tonight we are back on the camp site on North Uist. This is our last night on the southern islands, tomorrow we go back to Berneray and catch the ferry to Harris. We will then spend the second week of our holiday exploring the islands of Harris and Lewis.
Phil and Tina
This morning we went to a small island called Flodaigh, which is part of Benbecula. On Flodaigh there is an area called Seal Point and we were hoping, funny enough, to see some seals. We did see a couple of heads sticking out the water, but none hauled out on the side of the Loch. We were however not disappointed since we were treated to a wonderful display of an otter catching fish and eating them. It was much better than the glimpse we had yesterday.
In the afternoon we headed north to the island of Berneray which is north of North Uist. Here we did see a number of seals hauled out on the rocks, we also saw one swimming and jumping out of the water a number of times like a dolphin.
Tonight we are back on the camp site on North Uist. This is our last night on the southern islands, tomorrow we go back to Berneray and catch the ferry to Harris. We will then spend the second week of our holiday exploring the islands of Harris and Lewis.
Phil and Tina
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Two hot otter tips
Wed 2nd May
Ok I'll not go on about the weather, I'll just say it's a cracking day in the Caribbean.
We had a full day today, no banjo practice this morning. We headed to Lochmaddy on North Uist and a quick visit to the information centre revealed two hot tips on where to see otters. We set off on the short walk to one of the locations. We spent about an hour in total next to the loch. I kept scanning the beaches on the little islands through our telescope but did not see any movement. About 3/4 hour in I glanced to my right and right in front of us was an otter swimming away. We spotted it a couple of other times but not so close.
Whilst walking back to the camper van we stubbled across three deer, who were not so keen to see us as we were them.
After lunch we headed to the St Kilda viewing point on North Uist. On route we stopped at yet another stunning sandy beach complete with dunes. It took an hour to walk along it and back.
Driving towards the viewing point we got a good view of St Kilda which is a couple of islands about 40 miles off North Uist. St Kilda was inhabited until 1930, when following a particularly bad winter the residents requested that the government evacuate them. It is now a world heritage site. The viewing point is up a hill and sadly when we got there St Kilda was not so easy to see, I think it was a little hazy higher up. To get a better look we went down to the Balranald RSPB nature reserve which is right on the coast. Using our telescope we managed to get a good view of St Kilda. The walk around the reserve took over 2 hours.
Tonight we travelled a little south to camp on the island of Benbecula.
Phil and Tina
Ok I'll not go on about the weather, I'll just say it's a cracking day in the Caribbean.
We had a full day today, no banjo practice this morning. We headed to Lochmaddy on North Uist and a quick visit to the information centre revealed two hot tips on where to see otters. We set off on the short walk to one of the locations. We spent about an hour in total next to the loch. I kept scanning the beaches on the little islands through our telescope but did not see any movement. About 3/4 hour in I glanced to my right and right in front of us was an otter swimming away. We spotted it a couple of other times but not so close.
Whilst walking back to the camper van we stubbled across three deer, who were not so keen to see us as we were them.
After lunch we headed to the St Kilda viewing point on North Uist. On route we stopped at yet another stunning sandy beach complete with dunes. It took an hour to walk along it and back.
Driving towards the viewing point we got a good view of St Kilda which is a couple of islands about 40 miles off North Uist. St Kilda was inhabited until 1930, when following a particularly bad winter the residents requested that the government evacuate them. It is now a world heritage site. The viewing point is up a hill and sadly when we got there St Kilda was not so easy to see, I think it was a little hazy higher up. To get a better look we went down to the Balranald RSPB nature reserve which is right on the coast. Using our telescope we managed to get a good view of St Kilda. The walk around the reserve took over 2 hours.
Tonight we travelled a little south to camp on the island of Benbecula.
Phil and Tina
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
Haggis and Chips
Tue 1st May
Once more a stunning day weather wise to wake up to. I know people will think I'm making it up, here we are in the Outer Hebrides sun shining, not a cloud in sight and we hear on the news that the south of England is having floods.
Whilst lying in bed this morning I heard a strange bird call, I think it was a Corncrake.
Once again we had breakfast outside and once again found it hard to get up and move. So we spent the morning siting in the sun, looking out across the islands, reading and practicing the banjo. I even had a compliment from someone else on the campsite who said how nice it was to hear the banjo. Must be as tone deaf as me!
In the afternoon we went for a low, low level fell walk. It was a fantastic little walk up Beinn Eolaigearraidh and surprise, surprise we dropped down to a long sandy beach. Bonnie as usual loved playing on the beach and even managed a swim today.
On return to the van we realised we just had time to catch the early ferry from Barra to Eriskay. We had been booked on the next one at 6:00pm but found there was room for us on the earlier one. I think we both really enjoyed the north end of Barra.
Once on South Uist we spotted a fish and chip shop and decided that we deserved fish and chips following our epic climb up Beinn Eolaigearraidh. Tina had the said fish and chips and I had haggis and chips. We then headed for our campsite on South Uist for the night only to find it was a bit of hard standing on the side of a road and looked nothing like the photo on the web site. Oh well a couple of course ways later and we are back at the campsite we used Sunday night on North Uist. We don't mind simple sites, the one last night was basic with no electric hook up for the van, but at least that one was advertised as basic.
Phil and Tina
Once more a stunning day weather wise to wake up to. I know people will think I'm making it up, here we are in the Outer Hebrides sun shining, not a cloud in sight and we hear on the news that the south of England is having floods.
Whilst lying in bed this morning I heard a strange bird call, I think it was a Corncrake.
Once again we had breakfast outside and once again found it hard to get up and move. So we spent the morning siting in the sun, looking out across the islands, reading and practicing the banjo. I even had a compliment from someone else on the campsite who said how nice it was to hear the banjo. Must be as tone deaf as me!
In the afternoon we went for a low, low level fell walk. It was a fantastic little walk up Beinn Eolaigearraidh and surprise, surprise we dropped down to a long sandy beach. Bonnie as usual loved playing on the beach and even managed a swim today.
On return to the van we realised we just had time to catch the early ferry from Barra to Eriskay. We had been booked on the next one at 6:00pm but found there was room for us on the earlier one. I think we both really enjoyed the north end of Barra.
Once on South Uist we spotted a fish and chip shop and decided that we deserved fish and chips following our epic climb up Beinn Eolaigearraidh. Tina had the said fish and chips and I had haggis and chips. We then headed for our campsite on South Uist for the night only to find it was a bit of hard standing on the side of a road and looked nothing like the photo on the web site. Oh well a couple of course ways later and we are back at the campsite we used Sunday night on North Uist. We don't mind simple sites, the one last night was basic with no electric hook up for the van, but at least that one was advertised as basic.
Phil and Tina
Monday, April 30, 2012
Beach Walking paradise
Monday 30th April
Yet again woke up to bright sunshine although there was some cloud about and the wind had picked up over night.
Today we travelled to Barra which will be the farthest south we camp on the islands.
It was a nice drive from North Uist, through Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay. Each of these islands is joined to the next by a course way. Eriskay is famous for the event which gave Sir Compton MacKenzie his plot for the film Whisky Galore. In 1941 the ship Am Politician went ashore carrying 20,000 cases of whisky.
Before catching the ferry to Barra we enjoyed a walk on one of the lovely shell sand beaches of Eriskay.
The lunch time crossing to Barra took 40 mins, on arrival we drove to Barra airport where the plane lands and take off from the beach. We had arranged to meet the campsite owner at the airport so that he could show us where the campsite was. If you have ever watched the BBC TV programme "Island Parish" you may have seen Angus the owner of the campsite, he is the crofter featured on the programme.
Having checked out the campsite we then had a drive to Vatersay, another island connected by a course way. On the way we had our second beach walk of the day, white sand and crystal clear water. Heading back to the campsite we had a quick visit to Castlebay the main "town" on the island. We have just finished the day off with yet another truly lovely beach walk right next to the campsite. Lots of seabirds feeding at low tide and we even spotted a sea urchin.
The beach near Scurrival Campsite
Phil & Tina
Yet again woke up to bright sunshine although there was some cloud about and the wind had picked up over night.
Today we travelled to Barra which will be the farthest south we camp on the islands.
It was a nice drive from North Uist, through Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay. Each of these islands is joined to the next by a course way. Eriskay is famous for the event which gave Sir Compton MacKenzie his plot for the film Whisky Galore. In 1941 the ship Am Politician went ashore carrying 20,000 cases of whisky.
Before catching the ferry to Barra we enjoyed a walk on one of the lovely shell sand beaches of Eriskay.
The lunch time crossing to Barra took 40 mins, on arrival we drove to Barra airport where the plane lands and take off from the beach. We had arranged to meet the campsite owner at the airport so that he could show us where the campsite was. If you have ever watched the BBC TV programme "Island Parish" you may have seen Angus the owner of the campsite, he is the crofter featured on the programme.
Having checked out the campsite we then had a drive to Vatersay, another island connected by a course way. On the way we had our second beach walk of the day, white sand and crystal clear water. Heading back to the campsite we had a quick visit to Castlebay the main "town" on the island. We have just finished the day off with yet another truly lovely beach walk right next to the campsite. Lots of seabirds feeding at low tide and we even spotted a sea urchin.
The beach near Scurrival Campsite
Phil & Tina
Sunday, April 29, 2012
North Uist
Stopped last night at the Uig campsite, right next to the ferry terminal. It's a ok little campsite but they pipe music into the toilet block, may be it's to stop people sleeping in there when the weather is bad and the wind is blowing. Last night we listened to "Take To The Floor" on BBC Radio Scotland. It's a show of Scottish music and it's a bit of a tradition for us to listen to when um the highlands.
Woke this morning to bright warm sunshine, it was that warm we even eat our breakfast sitting outside. Our ferry was early afternoon so we spent a lovely lazy morning sitting in the sun, Tina read her book and I practiced the banjo.
In the afternoon we caught the ferry from Uig to Lochmaddy on North Uist, the ferry took 1 3/4 hours and the sea was flat calm.
Once off the ferry we had a little leg stretch and now we are camped a Carinish with a lovely little beach for Bonnie to play on.
Phil
Woke this morning to bright warm sunshine, it was that warm we even eat our breakfast sitting outside. Our ferry was early afternoon so we spent a lovely lazy morning sitting in the sun, Tina read her book and I practiced the banjo.
In the afternoon we caught the ferry from Uig to Lochmaddy on North Uist, the ferry took 1 3/4 hours and the sea was flat calm.
Once off the ferry we had a little leg stretch and now we are camped a Carinish with a lovely little beach for Bonnie to play on.
Phil
Saturday, April 28, 2012
Uig
Travelled up to Fort William yesterday, arrived at the site around tea time so missed any Friday traffic. Set up the van, the camp site is on the shore of Loch Linnhe. We watched a Herron fishing on the shore of the Loch and another in the river near by. Today we drove to Uig on Skye, lovely sunny day although the breeze is a little cool. We had a picnic lunch at Lower Breakish, I had a play on the banjo while Tina played with Bonnie on the beach. Tomorrow afternoon we catch the ferry to Lochmaddy on North Uist.
Phil
Phil
Thursday, April 26, 2012
Outer Hebrides Odyssey
Heading off tomorrow on a Outer Hebrides Odyssey. Two weeks in our little camper van for Tina, me, Bonnie (the dog) and my banjo. I only know three songs on the banjo so I'm not sure how long that will last before I have to have it surgically removed!
Friday night will see us stopping at the Caravan Club site at Bunree, near Fort William. Saturday we head off for a night on Skye and then the ferry to the Outer Hebrides. Tina has been busy planning the stops and route while on the islands, so it will all be a nice surprise for me. The Outer Hebrides is a place we have both wanted to visit for a while, in fact we had a holiday cottage booked on one of the islands a few years ago. Unfortunately a blocked toilet and the fact the equipment to unblock it was stuck on one of the other islands meant the owners of the cottage had to cancel.
Lets hope the sea is calm for all the ferry crossings that we have planned to hop between the islands.
Friday night will see us stopping at the Caravan Club site at Bunree, near Fort William. Saturday we head off for a night on Skye and then the ferry to the Outer Hebrides. Tina has been busy planning the stops and route while on the islands, so it will all be a nice surprise for me. The Outer Hebrides is a place we have both wanted to visit for a while, in fact we had a holiday cottage booked on one of the islands a few years ago. Unfortunately a blocked toilet and the fact the equipment to unblock it was stuck on one of the other islands meant the owners of the cottage had to cancel.
Lets hope the sea is calm for all the ferry crossings that we have planned to hop between the islands.
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