Thursday, May 10, 2012

Over the sea to Skye

Thurs 10th May
We caught the midday ferry from Harris to Skye. It only takes about an hour and a half for the journey but the weather is totally different, we left Harris in warm sunshine and find Skye covered in cloud and rain. That's the Skye we know and love! The very first time we came to Skye, on a summers day, we were saying "where are these mountains", only to find we had driven right past them. Not so bad today we can see them, well the bottoms anyway.
I think it will be an afternoon of tea and cake, may be a bit of banjo playing also.

Phil and Tina

Last full day on the Hebrides

Wed 9th May
Today the wind dropped and we are back to sunny spells although the breeze is cool.
This is our last full day on the Outer Hebrides, we catch the ferry back to Skye tomorrow morning.
This morning we drove along the Golden Road, it's a single track road (like most here) and is so called because of the cost to construct it. It follows the cost going in and out of all in the inlets.
We went back to the beach at Losgaintir, where I finished my walk earlier in the week. We had a long walk on the beach, you can walk for miles there. We said earlier in the week this beach was reported to be the best in the UK, yesterday it said on the radio that some publication claimed it was one of the best in the world. They said it was like the beaches in Brazil, only the average temperature is 7 degrees C and there is no one on it, the last bit sounds fine to me.
Last nights wind brought some snow high up, some of Harris' higher mountains have snow on the summits today.
In the afternoon we went to another island connected by a road bridge, Scalpay.



Phil and Tina

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Lewis no more

Tuesday 8th May
Today we woke to an overcast sky, the wind was still cold and the showers a bit more frequent. We took Bonnie down to a beach near the campsite. The turquoise blue sea has been replaced by a slate grey one and those are not white horses out there but great big cart horses.
There are a number of Black House museums and even a complete Black House village in the area, so we spent the day visiting them, we also visited an Norse mill.
The campsite on Lewis is a little exposed so we have decided to head back to the sheltered campsite on Harris, we were due to return there tomorrow night since it is near the ferry terminal we are going to use on Thursday.

Phil and Tina

Uig Mk II

Monday 7th May
Once again the sun was shining when we woke up, but it was not a clear sky and we did have a few showers during the day.
Today we drove to Uig on Lewis, this is our second Uig, the first was on Skye. Uig is remote and has both mountains and white sandy beaches. When we drove up the east side of Lewis we were not so impressed as we had been with other parts of the Hebrides, but the drive to Uig put Lewis back on the map.
In the afternoon we visited Great Bernera, this an island connected to Lewis via a bridge. We stopped to see a iron age house but did not stop long since dogs were not welcome in the area.
On the drive back to the campsite on Lewis we visited a number of stone circles.
Tonight we have pulled the roof of the van down, the temperatures dropped and when the roof is up it's a larger area to heat up. It's clouded over and a cold wind is blowing, I think the good weather may be over.

Phil and Tina

Sunday, May 6, 2012

Cliffs and Crofts

Sunday 6th May
Today's weather gave us showers, including wintery ones, and sunny spells. Lucky for use each time we wanted to leave the van it was sunny.
This morning we drove to Hushinish on the west coast of Harris. Hushinish is a crofting community and surprise, surprise, has a lovely sandy beach.
After lunch we drove to Lewis, I'm not sure why the south is called Harris and the north Lewis, it is one island. The north end of Lewis is flat and has built up communities, not like the main land but quite large compared to the rest of the Outer Hebrides.
Since it is Sunday there are no shops or petrol stations open and the hotel restaurants are only open to residents. The children's playground even had a sign on it saying "Please respect the sabbath".
We drove to the very north of the island, Butt of Lewis, and had a very nice walk high on the cliff tops. This is suppose to be the windiest spot in the UK but we had a little breeze blowing, that said the waves were still crashing against the cliffs.

Phil and Tina

Over the hills and far away

Sat 5th May
Bright sunny spells today with a chilly breeze. The campsite is sheltered from the wind so we had a nice quite night. When I took Bonnie out last night before bed the moon looked full and I could hear grouse calling to each other, it was a little eerie.
Today I had a hill day and Tina took Bonnie to play on the beach and to have a short walk.
I walked from the campsite and climbed Ceann Reamhar, Beinn Losgaintir and Beinn Dhubh. They are not very high, Beinn Dhubh is the highest at 506m, but the ridge forms a peninsula and this makes it seem a bit lofty out above the sea. I finished off the walk by dropping down to the beach at Losgaintir, where I met Tina, the walk took 6 1/2 hours. The start of the walk was along the road from the campsite, I passed a loom room where a man was weaving, I guess with this being Harris he was weaving Harris tweed. During the walk I came across a grouse. Why do they wait till you are right upon them to squawk and flap away, it always makes me jump. Whilst dropping off the ridge I saw a very large bird soaring, it could have been an eagle but I did not get a good look at it.
Tina and Bonnie enjoyed their beach day, in one if the national newspapers this beach was number one for beaches in the UK.
Tonight we are on the same campsite and tomorrow we head off to Lewis the last of our new islands.

Phil and Tina

Mountains, sea and sand - Harris

Friday 4th May
A bit of a windy night, still cold and windy this morning. We moved from the southern islands to the north today so spent the morning reading and watching the seals at Berneray before catching the lunch time ferry to Harris. I quite like the look of Harris, what we have seen so far, long sandy beaches and mountains.
We are staying on a nice little site, it takes just four camper vans, at Plocrapol. This afternoon we went for a walk which defiantly blew the cobwebs away.

Phil and Tina